Less $ Spent on Tools Could Mean More $ for Slot Cars

Let me be the first to say the hobby manufacturers do a great job when it comes to bringing us the products we need, as well as some helpful innovations in terms of tools and supplies. That said, many of the "specialized" products sold for slot car repair and maintenance, as well for general hobbyists, aren't as special as they seem, and low-cost replacements or temporary substitutes can often get the job done--at least as a start.  For example, here are a few items I've picked up at the local $1 store that have already proven to be helpful:

All purchased for $1 USD each. Pretty handy.

First--slot cars are small--and they are filled with an assortment of "bits 'n pieces" that will inevitably get lost if you don't have a place to secure them. Leave a small screw, washer or bracket laying on the workbench and you can be sure your cat will swipe it onto the floor and under some furniture. The blue plastic snack tray is less than full size and has handy compartments to hold stuff during car assembly or disassembly. Likewise, the clear plastic storage box has lots of small compartments to hold extra screws, magnets, wheels and inserts--and even some small bits like car mirrors and other spare parts.

Maybe they don't qualify as "precision" screwdrivers. But how much precision do you need?

My favorite find so far was the small set of "precision" screwdrivers that came in its own plastic case. The set of six includes four Philips-head and two flat head tools in commonly-used sizes. Are there better tools out there? Certainly. But for a single US dollar, these are damn handy and make a great backup set, in any case. Buy a few, and if you lose a set, you won't care.  The last item is just a set of three snap-blade knives; common as dirt, but 3 for a dollar ensures that you'll have one around when you want one. They are a must for crafting and building scenery when an Xacto knife isn't really required.

Here in the USA, these were all found for $1 each at the local Dollar Tree chain, where just about everything is a dollar. Similar items can be found at stores like Family Dollar or Dollar General--I would imagine that there are these kind of discount chains elsewhere across the globe. This isn't to dissuade you from shopping your local hobby supply, but with the money you save, you might be able to pick up that slot car you want a little sooner...

Slot Car Technology to Release "The Bench" V2 This Summer

For those who are focused on performance and want to know everything about the cars they build and race, there are helpful tools out there to help. I just came across this new testing bench that not only looks good but also promises to deliver a lot of info about your slot cars and engines.

The well-sized test bench will fit both 1:32 and 1:24 scale cars.

I'm not sure about the manufacturing process, but some of the parts look like they may be 3D printed--which is really great to see. I am continually amazed at how this technology has opened up so much creativity for the slot car hobby--where small-scale manufacturing allows us to test products and ideas and modify them quickly as they are brought to market. "The Bench" by Slot Car Technology is very attractive and appears to deliver a lot in a compact package. It's supported by a smartphone app that displays all the critical info.

The unit has adjustable power and appears to provide testing of acceleration, RPM, braking, voltage curve and most other critical performance factors. In addition, the manufacturer will be adding additional plug-ins to test tire break-in, magnetism and vehicle maintenance. The app images all appear in French, but I would think there would be an English language choice available via the settings; even if they were not, it seems to be easy enough to figure out. The projected price is about €220. To get all the information on the test bench product and its app, visit their English translated website HERE:

What To Do With Those Extra Car Display Boxes...

While many hobbyists insist on keeping their cars in their clear plastic display boxes, it's inevitable that you'll eventually purchase a used car that doesn't come with one, or just display your cars in such a way that they're not really needed. Sometimes one will get damaged or cracked. Rather than tossing them out or just stashing them away in a closet, you can make good use of them on your layout, with a little work and ingenuity.

Some of these beer brands might be outdated, as this is almost 20 years old.

This beer stand (Bier Haus) was made with an extra display case. Made up to fit into my track's Swiss/German theme, I used some black foam board to cover part of the sides and the top, painted the roof and part of the case's lower half, and then used thin auto pin striping (available at most any auto parts store) to delineate the sections of window glass.

On top of the little building there is a seating area behind the BIER HAUS sign; a small bench has been built into the back wall and a cardboard ladder was added to the back for access.  On the inside, I didn't add a lot of detail other than creating a counter at the inside rear and some graphics for the back wall that simulated some beer taps, a microwave and some coffee urns. While I kept this one fairly simple overall, it would be easy enough to create an actual floor, add a counter at the front and drop in some 3D accessories--including some service staff.

The printed graphics above the back counter include beer taps, coffee urns, etc.

 The other building in the image below could also be created with a display case, though in this example I used an empty candy box (Ferraro-Roche) to top of this modestly-sized track control tower. The process of construction was similar; masked off and painted portions of the clear acrylic box, then marked the windows off with pin striping. That section was made to fit into a 2-story bottom section made from foam core and covered with self-adhesive paper that the windows/door had been printed upon. Some black foam core was used for the sign on the front as well as the observation deck on the top.

Both items in place on my first track. They were not installed on my last one.

While there are some incredible laser cut and plastic kits on the market, I always enjoyed the challenge of creating my own buildings. Also, many of the buildings sold today are based on 1950s or 1960s models, and seem somewhat dated for the modern era--so if you want something contemporary, you just might have to make it yourself.

Speed Thrills: My First NSR and RevoSlot Cars

Times like these I really regret not having a track available to drop my new cars on for some test laps. The two beauties I'm highlighting here just arrived courtesy of UPS (and LEB Hobbies) and I am really happy to have them.

Before I go too much further, let me point out I am a notorious cheapskate when it comes to buying cars. This means that:  a) I have to limit my collecting to a definitive category of cars that I really like, and b) that I try to extend my collection as inexpensively as possible--which means buying cars that are on sale or very gently used. As I gradually fill out my list of "must-haves" it becomes harder to do this, as some types are simply just more expensive or (like these two brands) too new or seldom offered in used condition.

I have a Ford 3L P68 in my 60's-era Le Mans car stable, but it is a classic Scalextric model and simply not in the same class as my modern cars. It is in extremely nice shape, and I've considered putting the body on a newer chassis. Maybe someday.  This Lucky Strike livery is really attractive and will look great hanging out with the Ford GTs, Ferraris, Mark IVs and other classics in my pit lane. The detail on this NSR model is absolutely wonderful and I'm sure the performance will match. You might be surprised that, having been in the hobby for 20 years or more, this in my first NSR, but as I said, I'm cheap and I don't do any club or commercial track racing.

I already had a 333P, too--a yellow SCX model that is still like new and one that I always considered good-looking. When I started in the hobby, I liked the late-90's to 2000s LMPs, and my first Ferrari--although not red, as I usually prefer--was a nice visual break from my other cars, which included a white Joest Porsche and 2 white BMWs. Something about this RevoSlot's plain red livery (with just a few decals) appealed to me...and in terms of quality, it is a real stunner.

Since I am pretty much caught up in terms of modern GT cars (especially those offered by Scalextric and Carrera) it seems the focus will have to shift to quality over quantity/price and that means shelling out some more money for fewer cars. I often choke on spending over $75.00 for a car, but I have some holes in my collection and it's looking like some of the LeMans Miniatures models (which normally run well over $100 USD) may be the only way to fill them--aside from buying a 3D printer and trying to build my own.  Something to plan for, to be sure.

If Modern Endurance and F1 Cars Don't Drift Through a Turn, Your Slot Car Probably Shouldn't Either.

As I have been getting back into the hobby, it's inevitable that I hear the occasional back-and-forth between magnet and non-magnet racers, I often hear standard lines, like: "non-magnet racing is more challenging" or "Non-magnet racing takes more skill" or "non-magnet racing is more realistic."

First of all, let me say that I appreciate both kinds of racing. People should do whatever they like. Most of my cars retain their magnets because that makes them better-suited for running on my style of home tracks and for my guests (who aren't that experienced). I also primarily run Le Mans-type cars and modern GT cars, and expect them to stick to the track and not "drift" through turns. Think about it. Do you commonly see the back ends of LMPs or F1 cars fishtailing through a turn? Probably not--because the two main factors at play--tire grip and aerodynamic downforce--keep them glued to the track. That is how they are designed, and they are driven according to those principles.

Don't see much fishtailing through the turns here...

I was watching an excellent video about some of the more serious crashes in racing history and how safety has developed over time. At about the 5:30 mark, it provides an excellent explanation of how tire grip and aerodynamic downforce combine to keep race cars on the track, and how--when the downforce is suddenly lost--the results can be catastrophic, as they were in the case of Ayrton Senna, for example. To me, that seems to parallel similar results when a magnet car loses grip at speed. Time and time again I hear non-magnet proponents say: "the problem is, when a magnet car crashes, your car can get seriously damaged." YES. Just like in real racing.

Losing downforce (aerodynamic or magnet) usually has poor results.

To me, the removal of the magnet from a slot car would essentially be the same as removing all the wings and ground effects from a real race car and telling the driver to just rely on their tire grip to stay on the track. Since there are no aerodynamic effects at 1:32 scale, the magnet provides the essential substitute. Not a perfect one, but not bad either. I know many would suggest that simply adding weight (lead) is somehow a more acceptable substitute, but this attitude seems like a tired remnant from the "old days" of wood track commercial racing, before magna-traction was even a thing. Magnets and lead are both artificial--why pretend that one is better or somehow more "legitimate" than the other?

How did we get to the point where it's bad to have a magnet, but perfectly OK to add lead to your slot car?

I came across a forum comment from a magnet racer that said he thought it took more skill to keep a magnet car on the track at high speed--running that razor edge between maximum speed and sudden grip failure. That may be; the conception that magnet racers just plaster down the throttle and watch the car fly around the track is utter nonsense. Can high-speed crashes be bad? Absolutely--so magnet racers must learn how to drive fast without crashing. Conversely, it takes skill to learn how to run a non-magnet car quickly, to tune it for top performance and gain a feel for how it goes around a curve. That can offer its own fun challenges. Both take skill, but different types of skill. But to insist that one is somehow more realistic or takes more skill than the other just doesn't hold up under scrutiny.

That said, I can see where certain types of cars--like American muscle cars, rally cars or some vintage racers--can and should slide around the track a little as they as they come through sharp corners. For those types of cars, that looks realistic, and I would suggest that magnets probably aren't needed. In the end, it all depends how you enjoy the hobby; whether you're racing at home on a plastic track for fun, through proxy racing, or on a routed wood club track. You can take the approach that's required for each one and enjoy it without totally excluding the use of others, or claiming that the one you've chosen is the only "right" way.